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Stone Setting Books and Videos


Book201 - Gemstone Settings - $29.95
Gemstone Settings Gemstone Settings
The Jewelry Maker's Guide to Styles & Techniques
by Anastasia Young
Hard cover, 8.5" x 10.25", 208 pages, copyright 2012

Set the mood - one exquisite stone at a time. Gem lovers, rejoice! The most in-depth technical guide to stone setting is here. With Gemstone Settings you will fall in love with an encyclopedic technique overview featuring extensive stone-setting processes, detailed information about stones and metals, and gorgeous photos and illustrations for visual support.

Learn how to set your most beloved, precious, semiprecious, and organic stones with projects that range from elegant diamond masterpieces to pearl or coral everyday favorites.

In addition, you'll explore:
•The suitability of specific stones and metals
•What makes a design wearable and durable
•Pre-made verses handmade settings

Capture riches in your settings with this essential reference guide. Contents include:

Chapter 1: Introduction to Design: History of Gem-set Jewelry, Contemporary Gem-set Jewelry, Gem Cutting, Design Inspiration, Starting with the Stone, Design Considerations, Using Bought Settings, Commissions, Outsourcing

Chapter 2: Gemstone Directory: Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Spinel, Aquamarine, Topaz, Chrysoberyl, Zircon, Tourmaline, Peridot, Moonstone, Labradorite, Sunstone, Amazonite, Opal, Chalcedony, Jade, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, Agate, Hematite, Iolite, Kunzite, Quartz, Tanzanite, Diopside, Fluorite, Malachite, Obsidian, Coral, Shell, Pearl, Amber, Man-made stones

Chapter 3: Techniques Directory: Getting Started, Useful Tips and Troubleshooting, Hand Tools, Stone-setting Tools, Tool Shapes, Basic Fabrication Techniques, Advanced Fabrication Techniques, Wax Carving and Casting, Computer-aided Design and Manufacture; Rub-over Settings: Basic Bezel Setting, Tube Setting, Dome Setting, Tapered Bezel Setting, Bezels with Corners, Flush Setting, Channel Setting; Prong Settings: Crown Setting, Basket Setting, Closed-back Prong Setting, CAM Prong Setting, Applied Prong Setting; Grain Settings: Grain Setting, Five-grain Setting, Square-grain Setting, Pavé Setting, Micro-pavé Setting; Fancy Settings: Combination Setting, Multiple and Cluster Setting, Tension Setting, Caged Setting, Wobbly Stones, Swiveling Setting, Built-up Setting, Protective Setting, Setting from Behind, Upside-down Setting, Capping, Precious Metal Clay, Casting, Soldering Stones into Place, Setting Odd-shaped Stones, Settings for Interchangeable Stones, Spectacle Setting, Wrapping, Settings as Functional Devices, Mixed Materials and Other Metals; Pearls and Gem Beads: Working with Pearls, Stringing Pearls and Gemstone Beads, Wired Beads

Chapter 4: Reference: Conversions, Stone Shapes, Templates for Settings, Glossary, Suppliers and Services, Further Reading, Galleries, Fairs and Organizations


Book85 - Creative Stonesetting - $35.00
Creative Stone Setting Creative Stonesetting
by John Cogswell
Hard cover, 8.25" x 10.75", 208 pages, copyright 2008
Sample Page

Humankind has been adorning itself with gems for thousands of years, and for all that time, inventive jewelers have been devising elegant ways to attach stones to gold and silver objects. Too often, instruction stops at the familiar solutions of traditional bezels and prongs. In this landmark book, John Cogswell explores the exciting terrain at the edges of convention.

Creative Stonesetting suggests dozens of new ways to think about attaching stones. In a detailed text and through more than 600 drawings, the author describes concepts, tools, and techniques that will appeal to jewelers of every skill level and aesthetic.

Special attention is given to tool modification and scores of bench-tested shortcuts that will have an instant benefit on the day-to-day work of a practicing goldsmith. In addition, dozens of inspirational works by professional artists will trigger new approaches to familiar problems. Reader beware: after reading this book, you will never look at a setting or a gem in the same way.


Book214 - Opal & Gemstone Jewelry - $29.95
Opal & Gemstone Jewelry Opal & Gemstone Jewelry
Cutting - Designing - Setting
by Paul B. Downing
Soft cover, 6" x 9", 309 pages, copyright 2009

Cabochon cutting and setting made easy! Whether opal, agate, chrysoprase or tiger-eye, Opal & Gemstone Jewelry provides step-by-step instructions - taking you from rough to finished jewelry.

Follow Paul step-by-step as he cuts and sets each gemstone:
• Cut your first gemstone
• Properly dome a cabochon
• Deal with imperfections
• Advance to cutting opals
• Make doublets and triplets
• Design and assemble intarsia
• Create lost wax jewelry designs
• Set the stones you have cut

Author Paul Downing is best known as an opal cutter and author of Opal Cutting Made Easy and Opal Advanced Cutting and Setting . However, over his 40 years plus in the lapidary field he has cut many other gemstones. Praised for his simple, easy to understand approach to teaching, he now applies these techniques to all gemstones.

Don't worry... opal has not been neglected. Two sections are dedicated to Paul's favorite stone! Loaded with insider tips and techniques used by Paul in his cutting and designs. You won't be disappointed!

Section One: Cutting a Cabochon contents include: 1: Introduction - The Basics of Cabochon Cutting; 2: Equipment; 3: Cabbing Your First Gem; 4: Cutting Freeform Cabs; 5: Several Cab Cutting Projects
Section Two: Cutting Opal contents include: 6: Cutting Your First Opal; 7: Orienting the Color; 8: To Dome or Not to Dome; 9 Sawing Opal; 10: Cutting Standard Sized Opals; 11: Cutting Doublets and Triplets; 12: Rough Opal Sources; 13: Hot to Buy Rough Opal; 14: The Care and Feeding of Opal
Section Three: Advanced Opal Cutting Techniques contents include: 15: Loving a Gem's Unique Character; 16: Cutting Black Opal; 17; Cutting Boulder Opal; 18: Cutting Mexican Opal; 19: Finding the Beauty in Challenging Opals; 20: Finding Imperfections; 21 Advanced Opal Cutting Hints; 22: Treating Cracks and Stabilizing Matrix
Section Four: Advanced Gemstone Cutting Techniques contents include: 23: Intarsia; 24: Using Chips
Section Five: Setting Your Gems contents include: 25: The Basics of Proper Setting; 26: Lost Wax Design; 27: Preparing a Basic Setting; 28: Setting Other Cabochons; 29: Dribble Design Technique; 30: Design to Complement Your Gemstone; 31: Design Projects; 32: More Design Projects; 33: Design Tricks; 34: Sources of Design Ideas; 35: Setting Your Gemstone in Your Design; 36: The Best is Yet to Come

Appendices provide a Source Directory, Opal & Traditional Birthstones Chart and Index.


Book82 - Bead Setting Diamonds - $39.95
Bead Setting Diamonds Bead Setting Diamonds
with Pavé Applications
by Robert R. Wooding
Hard cover, 6.25" x 9.25", 192 pages, copyright 1985
Sample page

Bead Setting Diamonds presents bead setting as the exclusive subject of this text. It is a diversification of the diamond setting field that has evolved into a departmental specialty in jewelry production establishments. Since bead setting is the fundamental procedure of pavé setting, emphasis is given to the development and expansion of that procedure.

The instruction is detailed and illustrative, and encourages the reader to pursue and innovate alternative measures to problematic segments. Each segment is written to benefit the apprentice as well as the experienced diamond setter. However, the instruction is advanced diamond setting, and therefore includes information not found in books intended for the beginner. Bead Setting Diamonds is organized into four major topical sections: Tool Preparation and Maintenance, The Bead Setting Procedure, Bead Setting Applications, and Advanced Pavé Setting.

Tool Preparation and Maintenance presents chapters on: Tool List, Heat Treating Steel, Graver Preparation, and Making a Beading Tool. The Bead Setting Procedure presents chapters on: Inspect The Mounting, Design A Layout, Drill The Holes, Taper Bore The Holes, Cut the Bearing, Seat The Diamond, Secure The Diamond, Engrave Excess Metal, Shape The Beads and Bright Cut The Metal

Bead Setting Applications presents chapters on: Star Setting, Square Plate, Triangle Plate, Hexagon Plate, Marquis Plate, Bead Setting Diamonds Into A Row and Bead Setting Diamonds Into A Curve. Advanced Pavé Setting includes chapters on: Square Cluster, Round Cluster, Oval Cluster, Pear Cluster and Freestyle Cluster.


Book83 - Channel Setting Diamonds - $39.95
Channel Setting Diamonds Channel Setting Diamonds
With Illustrated Procedures
by Robert R. Wooding
Hard cover, 6.25" x 9.25", 136 pages, copyright 1987
Sample page

Channel Setting Diamonds is an advanced edition intended for professional use. The reader is assumed to have previously obtained skills in the use of tools and basic diamond setting experience. Some diamond setting schools and suggested readings are listed in an appendix.

This text is divided into two general sections. Each are consumed of discussions and illustrations. Section I describes basic channel setting techniques arranged in phases. It should be clearly understood before attempting any channel setting procedure. Also, the instruction can be used as a reference source for actual channel setting. Chapters presented in Section I include Inspection, Layout, Cut The Channel, Cut The Bearing, Secure The Diamonds and Finishing.

Section II presents a series of channel setting procedures. They are presented in a step by step sequence and graduate from basic to advanced. Chapters presented in Section II include Basic Closed Channel, Basic Open Channel, Curved Channels, Tapered Channels, Angular Channels, Inlaid Channels (Round Diamonds), and Inlaid Channels (Square Cut Diamonds).

To conclude the course a number of common problems and solutions follow Section II.


Video8 - Marquise Gemstone Setting DVD Video - $29.95
Marquise Gemstone Setting DVD Video Marquise Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 28 minutes

Marquise Gemstone Setting is part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. This video offers a complete procedure to set a marquise gemstone into a point prong setting.

Emphasis is on how to avoid chipping the stone's fragile points when securing them into narrow prongs. Includes optional techniques used by professional stone setters. Demonstrated step by step, with close up viewing, and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 5 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Video9 - Princess Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video - $29.95
Princess Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video Princess Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 31 minutes

Princess Cut Gemstone Setting is part of a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. The instruction is presented with close-up viewing and detailed graphics to show advanced techniques.

Emphasis of this video is to secure fragile points of fancy cut gemstones into a V-prong setting. Based on Unit 8 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Video10 - Emerald Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video - $29.95
Emerald Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video Emerald Cut Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 21 minutes

Emerald Gemstone Setting is a fancy cut unit in a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. This video shows complete instructions to set an emerald cut gemstone into a four prong solitaire mounting.

The procedure and techniques offer typical solutions with options for specific cases that could be encountered. Demonstrations are shown step by step with close up viewing and detailed graphics. Based on Unit 9 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


Video11 - Bezel Gemstone Setting DVD Video - $29.95
Bezel Gemstone Setting DVD Video Bezel Gemstone Setting DVD Video
Procedures & Techniques
by Robert R. Wooding
Running time 22 minutes

Bezel Gemstone Setting is a fancy cut unit in a continuing gemstone setting workshop series produced for educational institutions and professional jewelers. The instruction is presented with close-up viewing to show precise techniques applied by professionals to bezel set gemstones.

Step by step instruction with demonstrations for each phase of the procedure. Several features are presented including alternative bearing cutting, seating, and finishing options. Based on Unit 12 of The Diamond Setting Manual by Robert R. Wooding.


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